Skylights Omaha NE

Do you have a leaking skylight? We have the answer

After many years of installing roofing products and the “old style” of skylight. I mean the plastic ones that crack and leak all the time.

We now have the answer to those leaky skylights

E-Class Skylights:

Our energy-efficient E-Class self-flashing SkyWindow® skylights are designed to deliver more light per rough opening.and install in less time than any of the leading brands. Choose either Venting or Fixed styles, in standard and custom sizes.

Engineered for Easy Installation – Our one-piece curb-frame/flashing design installs far more quickly and easily than skylights requiring step flashing or mastic.

More Daylight for Less Cost – Our E-Class self-flashing skylights sit on the deck, giving you a larger glass area per rough opening compared to competitors’ skylights.

New Motorized Venting Model (EVM) – With long-range radio frequency controlled remote, Thermostatic control options, larger vent openings and faster cycle times.

10-Year Warranty -Wasco SkyWindow® skylights’ superior design, workmanship, and weathertight performance are backed by a non-prorated, 10-year limited warranty covering materials, insulated glass and workmanship. Ask for details.

Call us or visit our website for a free estimate.

We service Omaha, Council Bluffs, Lincoln and surrounding areas

www.roofsomaha.com

Tile roofing Omaha NE

Call Premier Exteriors today for a free estimate on your tile roof in Omaha NE or you can visit our website at www.roofsomaha.com

Why is tile the most popular roofing product in the world? It has durability beyond compare, energy cost savings, and protection like no other roofing material. Read on to see why tile is the roof of choice for so many homeowners

Designed for Long Term Performance

With over a century of proper field performance in other parts of the world, tiles provide the longest track record of performance compared to other roofing materials such as asphalt shingles. Our modern engineering design provides a natural water shedding and ventilation feature allowing tiles to be the primary roof covering in warm and cold climates (even reducing ice damming in cold areas). Our higher weight and strength allows tile to meet the anticipated loads of today’s design requirements for all of the climatic regions.

Available in a Variety of Colors and Styles

Roof tiles come in many colors, shapes, and sizes. In fact, with modern innovations, concrete and clay roof tile manufacturers can produce tiles to suit any architectural style, from authentic Spanish and Mediterranean to New England Colonial, historic, or contemporary. Roof tiles can be flat or round, simulate wood shakes, or seek to replicate centuries-old roofing materials. The possibilities are virtually limitless. Facts photo 1

Maintain their Color

Colors in tile come from natural sources such as the color and mixture of the clay used in clay tiles or from iron oxide pigments in concrete tiles, both of which are extremely durable. Tiles may experience varying degrees of color softening after extended exposure to the elements. However, this occurs to a lesser degree with roof tile than with most other roofing materials. Some clay roof tile manufacturers guarantee their tiles against fading for 50 years.

Long Lasting Protection

To maintain their long-lasting beauty, the weight of tile is important because it provides enduring protection without developing problems like other roofing materials. Most homes built today are strong enough to

support the weight of a tile roof. There are also varieties of lightweight tile offered in certain regions of the country that are ideal for new and re-roofing projects. Tile is fast becoming the re-roofing product of choice due not only to its durability but also to its ease of maintenance. Single tiles are much easier to repair than other roofing materials.

Can Sustain High Winds

Due to its resistance to severe weather, concrete and clay tiles continue to be the preferred roofing material among homeowners in the Southeast. With proper installation, tile roofing is one of a few select roofing systems that is proven to withstand sustained winds of 150 miles per hour found in Florida.

Economical

Facts photo 5 Clay and concrete tile roofs are one of the most cost-effective choices due to their long lifespan—50 to 100 years or more. Both concrete and clay tile outlast other roofing materials, with manufacturers offering warranties from 50 years to the life of the structure. In fact, in Asia and Europe, many structures with clay roof tiles have remained intact, functional and beautiful for centuries.

Require Limited Maintenance

All roofing systems require some maintenance, and certain climates and regions have special issues to address regardless of the type of roofing system. Under normal conditions, tile roofs require minimal maintenance. With tile, maintenance is restricted to gutters, protrusion flashings, and venting. With other roofing systems, maintenance may include coating, painting, cleaning, and/or sealing the majority of the roof surface.

HISTORY OF TILE

TILE THROUGHOUT TIME

Roof tile has been a major component of building throughout history, from Neolithic China as early as 10,000 B.C. to present day. Travel anywhere throughout Europe, the Middle East, South America, and you’ll find beautiful tile roofs that have lasted the test of time. Tile roofs can be found in almost any climate or region and can withstand some of the most hazardous weather conditions – often outlasting the very building it protects. That protection is what makes tile one of the most appealing alternatives to roofing materials. Its color and design can be tailored for any style of home; its safety provides the “peace of mind” and comfort for homeowners; and its durability enables manufacturers to offer some of the longest warranties in the roofing industry.

CLAY TILE

By far the most significant factor in popularizing clay roofing tiles during the Colonial period in America was the concern with fire. Devastating fires in London, 1666, and Boston, 1679, prompted the establishment of building and fire codes in New York and Boston. These fire codes, which remained in effect for almost two centuries, encouraged the use of tile for roofs, especially in urban areas, because of its fireproof qualities. Clay roofing tile was also preferred because of its durability, ease of maintenance, and lack of thermal conductivity.

CEMENT TILE

Recorded commercial production, using natural cement to form the concrete, began in Bavaria around the mid19th century.

Metal roofing Omaha NE

Metal roofing is one of the fastest growing parts of the roofing industry. Its popularity is increasing everywhere due to its many positive attributes. While a premium metal roof costs more initially than many other roofs, it can be a good investment in the long run. Not only are metal roofs long lasting, they can also increase a home’s resale value, decrease a home’s energy consumption (by up to 40%!), and in some areas, reduce the home owner insurance premiums immenselyNon-metal roofs start to deteriorate as soon as they are installed and exposed to the elements. UV rays, high wind, and severe temperature changes can damage most other roofs, sometimes drastically decreasing their service life. The average life span of a NON-metal roof varies between 15 and 20 years. Metal roofs can last 2 to 3 times that long, depending on style, quality, and workmanship. In many cases, a metal roof can be the last roof you’ll ever install on your home

Metal Roofing comes in a wide variety of designs, colors, and styles. You can purchase metal roofing in shapes that imitate asphalt shingles, tile, wood shakes, as well as the common vertical seam styles. Metal roofing can come stone-coated and smooth. You can also get metal trim pieces to match the color of your roof, or get contrasting colored trim to offset the roof

While copper and stainless steel are not unheard of, the most common types of metal used for metal roofing are steel and aluminum. Both are available in varying thicknesses but the most common are typically 24 gauge steel and .032” aluminum. Both are very durable and easy to work with, making them ideal for both the building owner and the installer.

Metal roofs are very durable in that they are quite hail resistant and wind resistant (installed properly, of course). Another added bonus is that you can install them right over the top of an existing roof (some criteria have to be met to ensure a proper “fit”). You can walk on metal roofs without damaging them, but just to be safe, you should contact your contractor or the manufacturer of the metal roofing materials. Some special profile metal roofs can be tricky to walk on without damaging them

Roof Ventilation Omaha NE

Attic ventilation is an important part of roofing. Proper attic ventilation extends the life of a roof and reduces problems because it minimizes the temperature differential between the attic and the air outside. Proper ventilation will remove moisture and heat from the attic. Trapped heat and moisture can raise energy costs, cause ice dams, and damage roof system components as well as structural and personal items located inside the attic where temperatures can easily reach 150° F (65° C). Condensation that forms inside attics can be caused by the use of washing machines, dish washers, bath tubs, showers, and tumble driers unless these items are properly ventilated through the roof. In some cases the condensation can be bad enough to be mistaken for a roof leak.

Here are some problems associated with an improperly ventilated attic space.

Sumps between rafters (deck deflection) can happen because after awhile (sometimes several years, sometimes only a couple years), a plywood roof deck can warp or deteriorate and become spongy and dangerous to walk on. This occurs because one side of plywood decking needs be able to “breathe” by being exposed to circulating air. The adhesives used in the plywood can deteriorate or Dry Rot can occur because of condensation.
Water vapor will condense first on anything metal inside the attic; this will eventually cause the metal to rust. Heads can rust off nails, metal plumbing straps or straps holding HVAC ducting can rust in two causing the ducting to crash down on top of the ceiling joists or through a suspended ceiling. This problem is more common in humid climates.
In colder climates – generally where the average January temperature is 32° F (0° C) or colder – high inside humidity (40% or greater) combined with low outside temperatures can cause frost to form on the bottom of the roof deck. See Dry Rot in the glossary.
Insulation can trap moisture which will reduce the R-value of the insulation and create a nice environment for the propagation of certain molds, spores, and fungi which will also cause problems. See Dry Rot in the glossary.
There is also the problem of mildew which is both damaging and can cause health problems.
The roof system itself will deteriorate prematurely.
Cooling units will need to be serviced or replaced prematurely because of excessive use.
Ice Dams – ice dams are the result of melting snow continually refreezing at the roof perimeter and then backing up under the shingles and causing leaks. Proper ventilation used in conjunction with heavy insulation and an air barrier can create a Cold Roof Assembly which will help eliminate

There are many types of attic vents available today. There are static vents, power vents, ridge vents, turbine vents, soffit / cornice vents, gable vents, starter vents, and cupola vents. These all come in a wide variety of sizes, styles and shapes. Some will ventilate better than others depending on the roof configuration, attic size, climate, etc. To properly ventilate an attic, two types of vents are needed. Intake vents, which are located at the downslope edge of the roof (a.k.a. eaves) and allow fresh air into the attic; and exhaust vents, which are located near or on the ridge line of the roof and allow air to leave the attic. The use of an exhaust vent in conjunction with an intake vent uses the natural forces of wind pressure and thermal effect, collectively known as the Stack Effect, to ventilate the attic space. HINT: Make sure your attic insulation doesn’t block the intake vents. If necessary, use baffles to keep the insulation back from it.

A vent’s effectiveness is measured by its Net Free Vent Area. The Net Free Vent Area is the portion of the opening in the vent that actually ventilates. For instance, a vent can have an opening that measures 12 inches by 12 inches; this would appear as if it would yield 144 square inches of ventilation area. Because of louvers, an insect screen, or some other type of blockage, the actual ventilation area could be as little as 40 percent of that, yielding about 58 square inches of ventilation area. This 58 square inches is what’s known as the Net Free Vent Area, and is the amount that should be used when calculating how much venting you need.

ice dams

Calculating how much venting your attic needs is relatively simple. All you need to know is the area of the attic floor. Include the garage, if you have one, and the soffited overhang because heat gets trapped above them, too. A common rule of thumb is the 1/300 rule, which means 1 square foot of net free vent area per 300 square feet of attic floor space. Let’s look at an example. Say you have an 1,800 square foot home with a garage that measures 20 feet by 22 feet. This will yield a total area of 2,240 square feet. You then divide this number by 300.

2,240 ÷300 @ 7.5

This tells us that we need 7.5 square feet of ventilation for the attic. Most attic vents are measured by square inches so we need to convert the 7.5 square feet to square inches. This is done by some simple multiplication. 1 square foot is equal to 144 square inches, so we multiply 7.5 by 144.

7.5 x 144 = 1,080

So we need 1,080 square inches of Net Free Vent Area. Divide this by two and we see that we need 540 square inches of intake ventilation and 540 square inches of exhaust ventilation.

There is always a lot of concern for what the best type of ventilation is. You have already read that you need both intake ventilation and exhaust ventilation installed at an approximate one to one (1:1) ratio. Now remember that the idea behind this is for maximum air circulation. Installing more than 1 square foot of ventilation per 300 square feet of attic floor space will not hurt anything – it’s a general guideline and code requirement in some areas. Most roofing professionals will agree that the best type of ventilation is continuous soffit and ridge ventilation. If a continuous exhaust vent and an equal or slightly greater amount of intake vent is installed, then the attic will be ventilated for its entire length

There are several common misconceptions about attic ventilation. One is that many people think that if they have only power vents or turbine vents working near the ridgeline, then their attic is properly ventilated. Remember that in order for an exhaust vent to properly function, it has to have intake vents working with it. If there are no intake vents, then air has to enter somewhere so it will enter through some exhaust vents and exit through others. The result is circulation of only the air immediately surrounding the vents or in between the vents

Another common misconception is “more is better”. Many people think that they can improve ventilation of their attic by installing vents all throughout the roof surface. What they don’t know is this causes a Ventilation Short Circuit. For instance, let’s say that Fred has a full soffit and ridge vent system installed. But thinking that more is better, Fred decides to install a couple of vents about halfway up the slope. Instead of improving his ventilation, he has now hampered it because air is now exiting out the vents in the middle of the roof, before it reaches the ridge leaving the attic partially unvented. Depending on wind pressure, air will also be taken in at the intermediate vents reducing the intake at the eaves where it should be.There is also the problem of weather infiltration. Wind blowing across a roof surface creates a negative air pressure. Nature will automatically try to compensate for it by moving air from a location of higher pressure, such as inside the attic. When the air is then removed from the attic in this manner, it has to be replaced. If the proper intake ventilation isn’t used, then air will be brought into the attic through the exhaust vents and will at times bring moisture with it.

When determining ventilation, remember the following:

Intake and exhaust ventilation should be installed at an approximate one to one (1:1) ratio. More at the eaves is better if it can be attained.
The 1/300 rule – 1 square foot of attic ventilation (Net Free Vent Area) per 300 square feet of attic floor space.
No attic vents should be installed between the intake and exhaust vents.
There should be at least three feet (3′) of vertical distance between the intake vnets and the exhaust vents.

SOME NOTES:

FHA Guidelines recommend the 1/300 rule. Some building codes require the 1/150 rule. When using the example above, adjust your numbers accordingly.
The Home Ventilating Institute (HVI) recommmends a 60/40 ratio where 60% of the total ventilation is for intake and the remaining 40% is for exhaust.
Some material manufacturers will not honor their warranty unless attic ventilation has been installed.

Roof raking Omaha NE

Call us today and get your roof cleared of damaging snow before you have an ice dam. We use a roof rake to remove the snow

679-6000

or email us at jim@premieromaha.com

Demolition costs Omaha NE

The cost of demolition can vary widely, depending on the details of your project. The best way to get an accurate building demolition cost or house demolition cost estimate is to contact a local demolition expert and describe what needs to be demolished.

House Demolition Cost

There are many variable that affect home demolition cost, making it difficult to calculate average demolition costs. An average range for residential demolition cost per square foot is $6.00 per foot to $15.00 per foot. Local demolition experts can give you a more specific home or building demolition cost estimate.

Some of the factors that can significantly affect demolition prices and the cost of house demolition include:

Are there environmental issues?
Any asbestos located in the structure? EPA requires proper asbestos abatement before demolition can occur. This may add $2 – $3 per square foot in demolition costs.
What are you intending to do with the debris? Landfill and hauling fees are a significant cost that must be added to the overall demolition price. Hauling and landfill fees vary widely by location.
Is there anything salvageable that might have value and offset the building demolition costs? A local demolition expert can help you understand if any of your house’s materials have salvage value.
Can any portion of the foundation remain or will you require everything to be removed? Concrete demolition costs add to the overall price of the job.
What is the home made of? Cinder block, red brick, wood, or a combination? What is the roofing material?
How many stories is the home? Multiple level homes increase demolition cost.
Is site restoration part of the project? Do you need any additional work such as excavating or site clearing?

Call Us today for a free esitmate at 402-679-6000 or visit our site at www.premieromaha.com

replacement windows omaha ne

The weather outside is cold, don’t throw your money away by letting it go out the windows. Call us today for a free estimate or visit our site at www.premieromaha.com
402-679-6000

egress windows omaha ne

finishing your basement? Call us today for a free estimate at 402-679-6000

Egress windows are a must when you are finishing a basement and you are planning a bedroom

Few of us think of windows as lifesaving equipment—but they are! When you need to escape a house fire or other disaster, or when rescue personnel need to enter—the right-sized egress window can make the difference between life and death.

NOTE: HEIGHT × WIDTH OF UNOBSTRUCTED OPENING MUST EQUAL AT LEAST 5.7 SQ. FT.

The old saying “Always leave yourself an out” is especially true when it comes to home fires. When the basement stairs are blocked by a flaming television (true story), or fire and thick, black smoke are racing down a hallway toward a dead-end bedroom, windows that are large enough for you to escape—and for firefighters to enter—become essential lifesaving equipment. These all-important escape hatches are called egress windows.

The purpose of this article is threefold:

To inform you why and where you need egress windows and how big they should be.
To alert you to the fact that, by today’s standards, your bedrooms and basement may very well not have proper-sized egress windows.
To help you choose the right egress windows and their placement as you build and remodel.

Egress Window Codes and Logic
Basement egress windows and the window well both have to meet rigorous requirements that allow occupants to escape and rescue personnel to enter.

You may have installed smoke detectors, but if you haven’t provided a way out once they blare, you’ve only done half the job. This is especially true for upstairs bedrooms and basements, where the stairway is often the sole escape route. If that stairway is blocked, you can be trapped.

According to the International Building Code, “Basements and sleeping rooms below the fourth story shall have at least one exterior emergency escape and rescue opening. . . . Such opening shall open directly into a public street, alley, yard or court.” This “escape and rescue opening” can be a window, skylight or patio door, but it must meet certain criteria:

It must have a minimum net clear opening of 5.7 sq. ft. Net clear opening refers to the actual free andclear space that exists when the window is open. It is not the rough opening size or the glass panel size or anyother size, but the actual opening aperson can crawl through. Code officials want the opening large enough so firefighters can comfortably crawl through the window in full protective gear with an oxygen tank on their back. Ground-floor windows only need a net clear opening of 5 sq. ft.; they can be smaller because a rescue ladder doesn’t take up part of the opening.
The opening height must be at least 24 in., and the opening width must be at least 20 in.
The bottom of the clear opening must be within 44 in. of the floor.
The window or other opening must be operational from the inside without keys or tools. Bars, grilles and grates over windows must be operational without tools or keys and still allow the minimum clear opening.

Note that a window opening that’s the bare minimum of 24 in. high and 20 in. wide does not meet egress requirements, since its net clear opening is only 3.33 sq. ft. A window has to be taller and/or wider than these minimums to meet the 5.7-sq.-ft.-opening requirement.

All these numbers may seem daunting, but selecting a new egress window doesn’t need to be. Window manufacturers list the net free opening of their windows and skylights in their catalogs, and whether they meet egress requirements

402-679-6000 or email jim@premieromaha.com

SHAKE ROOFING OMAHA NE

CERTI-SPLIT® HANDSAWN AND RESAWN SHAKESCerti-Split® Hand-Split Shakes

These shakes have split faces and sawn backs. Cedar logs are first cut into desired lengths. Blanks or boards of proper thickness are split and then run diagonally through a band saw to produce two tapered shakes from each blank. Available in Premium Grade (100% edge grain) or Number 1 Grade (Up to 20% flat grain allowed in each bundle).Number 1 Grade
Description
Lengths 18-inch, thickness ½” (medium) and ¾” (heavy) minimums; length 24-inch, thickness 3/8″, ½” (medium) and ¾” (heavy) minimums. Width 4″ minimum. Clear heartwood; 20% maximum flat grain in each bundle.

Roof Exposure
18-inch shakes – 7½” maximum; 24-inch medium and heavy shakes – 10″ maximum; 24-inch (3/8″) shakes – 7½” maximum (5″ per UBC).

Wall Exposure
Single course: 8″ for 18-inch shake; 10½” for 24-inch shake.

Double Course
14″ for 18-inch shake; 18″ for 24-inch shake.

Recommended Use
For walls and roofs on 4:12 pitch and steeper where high quality appearance and performance are desired.

Premium Grade
Description
Lengths 18-inch and 24-inch; width 4″ minimum, thickness ½” (medium) and ¾” (heavy). Clear heartwood; 100% edge grain; no defects

Roof Exposure
7½” for 18-inch shakes; 10″ for 24-inch shakes.

Wall Exposure
Single course: 8″ for 18-inch shakes; 18″ for 24-inch shakes.

Recommended Use
For walls and roofs 4:12 pitch and steeper and where a premium quality product is needed or desired. The 100% edge grain requirement exceeds the national industry standard.

Class A, B & C fire ratings may be obtained by specifying Certi-Guard® pressure impregnated, fire-retardant treated Premium or Number 1 Grade shakes.
Certi-Last® pressure impregnated, preservative treatment is available for added longevity.
Contact the treatment company for treatment warranty information, accessory product requirements (including recommended fastener types) and application details for treated cedar material.
Historical Projects: CSSB members offer straight split/barn shake, and tapersplit products for historic accuracy. Ask your supplier for more details. Check CSSB technical manual for specific installation details.
Certi-label™ cedar shake and shingle products manufactured by members of the Cedar Shake & Shingle Bureau are graded in accordance with UBC Standards No. 15-3 and/or CSA 0118.1.
This is only a product description necessary for selection of materials and grades. For a new roof construction manual and/or wall manual please contact: info@cedarbureau.com.

TAPERSAWN CEDAR SHAKES

Number 1 Grade
Description
Nominal lengths 18″ and 24″ shakes shall be of random widths, minimum width shall be 3 ½”. Tapersawn shakes less than 4″ in width shall not constitute more than 5% of each bundle. Thickness shall be nominal 5/8″ or ¾” with a minus tolerance of 1/16″ in 10% of the bundle. Face 100% clear. Flat grain 205 maximum per bundle. 1/8″ sapwood allowed to exposure line. Additional sapwood permitted above that point.

Roof Exposure
10″ for 24-inch shake; 7½” for 18-inch shake. Interlaid felt is required.

Wall Exposure
Single course: 11½” for 24-inch shake; 8 ½” for 18-inch shake

Double course
18″ for 24-inch shake; 14″ for 18-inch shake.

Recommended Use
For walls or roofs on 4:12 slope and steeper where a high quality, durable and uniform appearance is desired.

Starter-finish Course
Length 15′. For use on the underlying starter course at eave lines and for the final course at ridges where trimming would otherwise be necessary and full-length shakes are not needed.

Premium Grade
Description
Same as Number 1 Grade, except that all product shall be 100% edge grain. All other descriptions from Number 1 Grade apply.

Number 2 Grade
Description
Nominal lengths 18″ and 24″, minimum width shall be 3″, shakes less than 4″ width shall not constitute more than 10% of the running inches of each bundle. Thickness shall be nominal 5/8″ or ¾”: with a minus tolerance of 1/16″ in 10% of the bundle. Limited defects are allowed 9″ above the butt in 18″ shakes and 12″ above the butt in 24″ shakes. Unlimited flat grain is allowed. Sapwood is restricted it 1″ in width for the first 10 inches.

Roof exposure
7½” for 24-inch shake; 5½” for 18-inch shake.

Wall exposure
Single course: 10″ for 24-inch shake; 7½” for 18-inch shake.

Double course
11½” for 24-inch shake; 8½” for 18-inch shake.

Recommended Use
For walls or roofs on 4:12 slope and steeper where a good quality appearance is desired.

Class A, B & C fire ratings may be obtained by specifying Certi-Guard® pressure impregnated fire-retardant treated Premium or Number 1 Grade shakes.
Certi-Last® pressure impregnated preservative treatment is available for added longevity.
Contact the treatment company for treatment warranty information, accessory product requirements (including recommended fastener types) and application details for treated cedar material.
Certi-label™ cedar shake and shingle products are manufactured by members of the Cedar Shake & Shingle Bureau are graded in accordance with UBC Standards No. 15-3 and/or CSA 0118.1.
1997 ICBO Uniform Building Code requires No. 2 grade tapersawn shakes having two thicknesses at the butt: 5/8″ or ¾” with a minus tolerance of 1/16″.
This is only a product description necessary for selection of materials and grades. For a new roof construction manual and/or wall manual please contact: info@cedarbureau.com.

CERTI-RIDGE® HANDSPLIT SHAKE HIP & RIDGE UNITS

Number 1 Grade
Description
Manufactured from Number 1 Grade Certi-Split® shakes. Lengths 24-inch; thickness ½” medium, ¾” heavy; widths not less than 9″ (measured on the inner surface at the butt end). 20 units per bundle.

CERTI-RIDGE® TAPERSAWN HIP & RIDGE UNITS

Number 1 Grade, Blue Label
Description
Manufactured from quality Number 1 Grade Certi-Sawn® shakes. Lengths 18-inch; 24-inch; thickness 5/8″, ¾”; widths not less than 9″ (measured on the inner surface at the butt end). 20 units per bundle.

Number 2 Grade, Red Label

Description
Manufactured from Number 2 Grade Certi-Sawn® shakes. Lengths 18-inch, 24-inch; thickness 5/8″ or ¾”; widths not less than 9″ (measured on the inner surface at the butt end). 20 units per bundle.

Exposures
The hip & ridge exposure should be equal to or less than the exposure in the field of the roof, and should not exceed the maximum exposure for the specified length and grade.

Recommended Use
The appropriate hip and ridge unit should be selected to match the adjacent shingles or shakes. However, in many areas a tapersawn hip and ridge units is used on both shingle and shake applications. Hip and ridge product type selection should be performed in accordance with the aesthetic look desired.

Class A, B & C fire ratings may be obtained by specifying Certi-Guard® pressure impregnated fire-retardant treatment, on number 1 grade product.
Certi-Last® pressure impregnated preservative treatment is available for added longevity.
Contact the treatment company for treatment warranty information, accessory product requirements (including recommended fastener types) and application details for treated cedar material.
Certi-label™ cedar shake and shingle hip and ridge units are manufactured by members of the Cedar Shake & Shingle Bureau are graded in accordance with UBC Standards No. 15-3 and 15-4 and/or CSA 0118.1.
This is only a product description necessary for selection of materials and grades. For a new roof construction manual and/or wall manual please contact: info@cedarbureau.com.

Choosing your roofing Omaha NE

Choosing roofing materials must take into consideration many factors, from the climate and weather conditions in your area to the lifespan expected of the roof, from the cost of roofing materials to aesthetic preferences of the homeowner. We offer the information that you will need to make the choice that is right for you from all the different types of roofing material products.

Roofing Material Above All

The roof is by no way an afterthought, only a decorative element or a nuisance of any sort to be solved cheaply and quickly. Choosing roofing material that will serve you best can not only complement the house but take it to new heights. Comparisons of roofing materials, and our assistance, can help you keep your house cool in the summer, warm in the winter, safe of fire and harsh weather elements and a host of trouble you can spare. Different looks, colors and style can be attained by the use of various roofing materials, and more.

When It Comes to Choosing the Roofing Material

After figuring out what the homeowner wants and what the house needs in terms of roofing protection and design, it is time to choose what roofing materials to use. With our roofing experts’ advice, homeowners will be able to make a decision based on technical aspects of each roofing material as well as availability and a roofing materials price comparison. Asphalt shingles of all kinds, aluminum roofing and green roofs are only some of the options you will be facing. Each is presented with its advantages for you to read and consider. You are invited to contact us for further personal guidance in making your choice the best choice.

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